BWOF 06-2006-124 - Test Muslin #1

Among other things I've been wanting a tank pattern for jersey knits (with elastene) that is figure-fitting but appropriate for work. I have this RTW that I purchased at Ross. One of those cost-$8-and-it's-one-of-the-coolest-things-you've-ever-worn items. I pretty much only have BWOF patterns and few Vogue patterns I purchased on sale. Since I feel very much overspent in the sewing department, I wanted to find something from what my current inventory. The closest I could find to what I was looking for is from the June 2006 BWOF, #124. The front (featured to the right) is cute, huh? What you don't see is that it's been slashed into three pieces. That's the part I like best.

Here's the part I like least. I mean it is ok, don't get me wrong. It just is not something I could wear with a skirt and a jacket to work. So, I've been trying to modify it so that I have the three pieces but the back goes all the way across.

I've also been having issues with my BWOF blouses and tops. They just always seem to need a lot of extra taken in at the sides. On things with a lot of ease, I really feel shapeless unless I take in an inch or so!! So I thought with this one I would go down two sizes according to my bust (from a 38 to a 36). I think it was a crazy moment. Two sizes seems like a lot to me now but an inch is GInormous so I guess that was what I was thinking... I did a very non-precision test run where I traced out the pattern and then eyeballed the adjustments I thought were needed. Today I was able to quickly sew up a muslin out of some poly-lycra stuff that had big stains on it. I think I got 3 yards of it for $2 or something like and it's come in handy BIG time. Here is the first attempt.

As you can see, two sizes was a bit much. In retrospect, this pattern does not look to have a lot of ease so I really should have stuck with my bust measurement.

In sewing it up, I also noticed that I had cut the lower back piece too short (by about 1.75" overall). The back neck turned out well and I like where the sections all hit - just above the bust apex and just above the belly button. From the photo, I wonder about the shoulder length but I'll leave that and just cut the 38 and see what happens. The armscyes may be a little too small as well. (Or possibly my arms aren't as toned as they used to be!) I like where the hem currently hits (unsewn) so I'm going to extend that about another 1.25".

Currently, I have BWOF 11-2008-125 cut and ready to sew up in a wonderful bamboo interlock. Now I'm concerned because I cut it the same day as the muslin above and it's (of course) a 36. Pretty sure this isn't going to fit. I'm going to sew it with 1/4" seam allowances and try to keep in mind that it will likely get passed to a friend's sister if that isn't enough. I need to just keep patting myself on the back for playing with the knits at all right now. Here's a 3/4 mock-up I did earlier of a t-shirt. It really makes me want to try a few ones for Nealla now that I see it. So tiny and cute.

Ok, well I better go try to sew the raglan shirt up. Hope the weekend was great!

- Rachel S.

Little Treasures

How cute is this? When I found it DB declared "You love junk!" It was said with a grin but maybe he thinks the stuff I like is junk...OH well! How could this stuff be considered junk?! Maybe he thinks "junk" is a synonym for antique (and also rather charming)? This my new darling antique thread sorter (found on Etsy). I love it, love it. In the background is one of my other favorite items - my butterfly, milkglass lamp.

I have been away from the world of sewing blogs in a big way the past few months - work was seriously draining me. This weekend left me feeling rejuvenated and motivated though. It's not like I haven't been working on a few things. Just haven't had much opportunity to be online. Without further delay, here's the catch-up.

Completed BWOF top 113 from the November 2008 edition. I haven't had time to post a pattern review yet. Lots of others have made this as well. It's simple, easy and not a bad look (for a bag shirt). I used French seams throughout (a first for me) and am pretty happy with it overall. At the end, I had a bad moment and decided to bind the hem with bias tape that was way too heavy. Now it waves out too stiff for my tastes but I intend to rip and re-hem without the tape. What was I thinking?! Hair disclaimer: apologies, DB told me it looked fine and I was too tired to double check. It's not usually so lopsided.

Remember our lovely new, blue kitchen? Well, it needed a little something to shock the senses out of the world of a Dutch plate. We had some natural-colored, linen chair covers from Crate & Barrel that I had purchased off a friend who was moving back to Germany (he threw in so much stuff these were probably a whole dollar) and I had a new batch of procion dyes from DharmaTrading I was anxious to play with so I made them "Fire Red". What do you think? I love them! The red has blue undertones and is super cheery. Think I see a little Fire Red linen jacket in my future...

Here's one with a bookbag I have just completed. The pattern came from Sew Simple vol. 10. It was super easy and I learned a lot from it as I had never attempted one of these before. Some features: It is lined, has a box bottom, and a zipper attached to flanges so it creates an almost-complete closure on top. Here's one of the top. Things I'd change for next time: add a small pocket for my phone onto the lining, flat fell the seams on the bottom (wondering if I can do the sides this way too) and bind all of the seam edges that I show. *shrug* There's quite a bit I'd change but I was determined to sew from stash and see what I came up with. I keep finding that every project holds mucho sewing lessons so nothing is a waste!

I had wanted to include a photo or two from the Maker Faire earlier this month but I'm running out of time so I'll add another short post on that later.

Happy summer! Happy sewing!
Rachel S.

My Camera is Having More Fun Than Me Right Now

Haven't had much of a head to post lately. My mood has been leaning towards grumpy andwork has been knocking the stuffing out of me, leaving me exhausted and creativeless. I've still been doing a few things here and there. Here's an update. No photos on this one, though, as I lent my camera to a traveling friend. (The camera needed to take a trip even if I can't right now!)

• Tried another test dye - this time using "Olive Green." While it's a lovely color dye, it came out like 500 times darker than the little fabric sample at the store. Maybe it's becausemy tap water comes out very, VERY hot and the higher temperature yields a brighter dye? What I'm going for now is a very light, hint o' green - I'm thinking celery. Anyway, I'm done testing. Tonight (or maybe tomorrow) I'm just going to dye the batch for the curtains and put a quarter of the dye I used in the test. I think this will be light enough...maybe I'll use an 1/8. I'd rather go lighter.


• DB helped with prepping the linen last night and commented that he'd like a shirt out of it. Wonder if I could get that good by Christmas..maybe I should start thinking about that now and even take a classto prep for it..hmm.


• Still have to add an eye to the turtle and finish the last couple of inches on the blanket *big sigh*.


• Had a wardrobe meltdown the other day and decided to suspend all sewing activity on anything other than quick tops and skirts for a bit. (Of course, the curtains are an exception..as are the throw pillows that go with them.) So, I have two tops cut and hope to get them sewed up this weekend. Nothing special but they are much needed.


• Did I mention that my job is stinky right now? *big sigh*

Hope to have results and more fun things to write about and show soon!
Take care!
Rachel S.

A Look To Dye For!

Love this, love this. Saturday I got to fabric dye for the first time in over 20 years (egads!). Then it was tie-dye for school spirit. This weekend it was the serious dye for things that you want to stand the test of time. This is me in my Serious Dye Gear. Yep, those are my swim goggles. DB said, "watch out for fumes" and, generally speaking, this gal listens to safety tips. (I really love those swim goggles, btw.)

Awhile back I had the opportunity to purchase some nice linen - like a lot of nice linen. I thought I could use it for around the house - pillows, embroidery, window coverings and such - and maybe a dress or blouse. Since I'm dyeing linen for curtains and clothes, I wanted to use something that had staying power against washings and sunlight. Did some reading on the web and decided on Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion Dyes from Dharma Trading (but of course). Everything I needed was there (plus more) and shipping was minimal and fast. Since we don't own a washing machine, I had to tub dye. A friend lent me an old washtub she had and it turned out to be perfect for a half-pound load or so (DB purchased a Rubbermaid trash can for the bigger jobs). For the test, I used Orchid. I was hoping it would work in the living room but no such luck. Such a beautiful color though! I also have some Azure Blue and Carmine Red. This is going to be fun! Below is a photo of the finished product. I think it turned out beautiful. No streaking or freckling with a consistent overall color. Poifect! Couldn't have been more pleased. I used soda ash to set the dye as well as a detergent that's supposed to assist. In addition to that, I used a dye fixative in the final rinse. I am happy to say that this fabric no longer bleeds. I'm really comfortable washing it with other items now. How cool is that?! This was a really fun project and I'm anxious to find the right color for the curtains. These will have to be dyed after they're made but I think it will work fine all the same.

I'm told the bamboo interlock I ordered (and that's dyeable) is shipping this week! Whoo hoo! I'm thinking I want to try some of that red..

Rachel S.

Quick Update

I hope everyone had a wonderful Easter! We had a fairly quiet and restful one - just hung out at the house. Pretty lazy actually.

Except for the (almost) completion of a little Turtle Buddy for Nealla Rose. She ended up being quite a little learning project. Everything was sewn up twice, I think, due to my own thickness. Next time, it should go twice as fast and be a little stronger. This one is entirely hand-sewn. I'm happy to sew one up once in a while just as practice for the hand-stitching. At this point in my life I'm finally able to find some peace in a needle. Course my fingers are still filled with little scratches from jamming the needle into them. I had to laugh. With everything I did this weekend, I have tons of little scratches, burns, and cuts on my poor hands and fingers. The things we go through! Anyway, I'm anxious to sew on the little turtle eyes and mark this one as completed. In my usual impatience, I am posting a photo now of the little turtle. I'll re-post with eyes later. : )

In other news, here's the update on the list I posted Friday.

• need to get some non-iodized salt for dyeing


• scrub tub for test dyeing


• cut linen for curtains


• test dye!!!


• attempt Irish Brown Bread to accompany DB's batch of Irish Beef Stew


• finish baby blanket (um, yeah it's just a little bit that's left)


• sew up turtle buddy!!


• iron skirt linen, cut and mark for skirt

Overall, I'm fairly happy. I also made some pretty fantastic cupcakes (anything with 3 cups of sugar, 2 sticks of butter, and 16 oz. of cream cheese is pretty much guaranteed to be friggin good). If you're interested, the recipe can be found at Epicurious. I know the ingredients are deadly (deadly good) but these are simply awesome!

Have a fabulous Monday!
Rachel S.

Lots of Good Things

Pretty excited about today. I have a lot planned and want to get to as much as possible. First off, the baby has arrived! Hoo-ray! It's a girl and her name is Nealla Rose. So pretty. Haven't been able to see her or "mam" yet. Of course, DB got to see a picture and his words were, "She looks like a baby." *big sigh* I didn't even respond. Anyway, I'm on a mission to make her a Turtle Buddy today. I have some cute girly corduroy and dotted poplin from Bunte Fabrics and I'm thinking they'd be cute for the parts. Right now the poplin is washing. I thought I'd type a quick post before hitting the dryer and then it's off for a swim.

I have found heaven and it's in a little three lane, heated pool in San Francisco. The pool I'd been shlepping to previously took 30 minutes to get to (I'm a public tranport gal), was inside, and recently stalked by an annoying woman who seemingly waited in the hot tub for me to come swim in a free lane. Seriously, the same woman every time bogarts the only available lane! And every time I went - no matter the schedule. You'd think she'd have prunes for appendages. La-la-la-la she's no longer my problem now! The new club might have a smaller pool but you have to RESERVE the lanes. :-P~~~~~~~~~~~ So that was a long way of saying I'm off swim and then it's any one of a number of things.

* need to get some non-iodized salt for dyeing
* scrub tub for test dyeing
* cut linen for curtains
* test dye!!!
* attempt Irish Brown Bread to accompany DB's batch of Irish Beef Stew
* finish baby blanket (um, yeah it's just a little bit that's left)
* sew up turtle buddy!!
* iron skirt linen, cut and mark for skirt

Updates later this weekend. Here's a few photos. On top (or left), DB and his childhood BFF who is visiting in the area. Below (or right), partial installation of the knobs in the kitchen (& a canine profile). Both make me grin. Underneath is a shot of my skirt alterations (2" through hips). More on that later.

Have a fantastic weekend!

Rachel S.

Petite All Over (not just in my lower legs, it turns out)

I wanted to post some learnings from that skirt fiasco...
Most important: Making petite adjustments to a skirt and cutting extra off the bottom of the hem are NOT the same thing, Rach! Ok so I knew this and had actually had a thought about it in the beginning. In fact, I did that (took up my fabric length above and below the knee) with my current pants muslin. Why, oh why I didn't think of it for this I don't know. This has definitely shown me (con-clusively) how important it is to shorten a pattern correctly. Lopping off the bottom doesn't really do it unless your short-legged.

Second most important: It goes a long way if I work to keep the momentum on my project going. I need to stab myself with a pin everytime I put down a project because I come to an intimidating part. Better for me to jump in and attempt it (if I'm not too tired) then to set it down and take a chance on leaving it for a length of time. If I'd got to the hem a couple of months ago I'd only have a two-month wadder instead of a 3 monther. I think I'd be less bothered somehow - and a little less bummed with myself.

Also learned to sew in a lining and not to underestimate how time consuming or tedious that can be - serenity now.

And I proved to myself that I can produce a decent invisible zip.

I'm trying to be positive about this - can you tell?

Tonight, I'm altering the pattern, retracing, and cutting into the brown. Have to wait for the lining I ordered to come in but I'm going to see if I can't have this puppy finished by next week!

Rachel S.